so I wanted to start off by saying that I am NOT, then, is not sponsored by D Walt, but it's also not trying to say that they're bad or anything. I like the waltz product, but this one has a very serious flaw. I'Ve said a lot of bad things about miter saws in my day, and the reason isn't that miter saws, in general, are bad. It'S just that every single company builds them with this FreePlay in the hinge see what I'm talking about. It'S not acceptable to be fair.
The average consumer is going to fight, it is probably a DIY kind of guy who is not trying to be very precise or a contractor. A framework they're never going to care about this play in the hinge. They'Re, probably never even going to notice, but for somebody like myself is trying to do precision woodwork. I am going to go crazy, trying to use this thing because it won't be accurate enough. Sometimes I have to cut down a longboard, and I currently have no way to do that, except with a handsaw when a handsaw so inside it I needed a miter saw so anywhere The Home Depot and Whittle all of them and bought the most solid one there.
I got it home and this one's not quite as solid as the display model, so it's not accessible, so I'm going to try to fix it. You'Re, probably saying that it's not acceptable just take it back, but this was the best one there. So if I take it back, what am I going to do how much play there actually is? It'S it's pretty bad. First of all, I had to determine where this play is coming from, and if I put my finger over the end of the hinge pin here and wiggle it, I can feel this pin moving in the socket so I'll lower. The sliding compound miter saw reviews down try to wiggle side to side and yeah.
You can definitely see that with the stuff up. If I try to wiggle play the site, you can also see the pin moving up and down. Obviously, the pin is just waiting small for the whole. My strategy for fixing this is to suddenly take this pin out and put it in a bigger pin. I hope it looks like I should be able to remove the stop the upper limit that stops it here so that it can just flop all the way over backward and that should unwind the spring have a stop removed. You should be able to just let this in frameless now so here on the back of the saw.
There are two set screws, I think that's what's holding the pan in, I see, there's actually a plastic bushing well. This is this is the problem that I've had with 90 % of all tools that I've experienced. You'Ve got nicely machine parts here fairly. Nice finish around here, a very nice shop for it to run on nice. Smooth finish on this clean bore there and then a pathetically cheap, little plastic bushing in a critical location where it matters most, and this isn't unique to this - saw it's not unique to D. Well, it seems like every product that I've encountered has that one part in a critical location - that's just garbage, so I guess instead of making a new bigger diameter shop, I'm going to just make some new bushings here's the bushings.
You can see they have its lock on them. Anyways, that's just super cheap injection. Molded part. I have a piece of UHMW here, so I'm just going to make a new bushing out of this anyone who's ever machined plastic will know that when you get it really thin, it's pretty much impossible to be precise because it deflects. So after I bore out the hole to exactly the right diameter, I'm going to put this little mandrel that I made in the hole to hold it round. While I turn the outside down and that way, I should be able to get that CM little bushing. Exactly the right thickness all the way, I really only have one shot at this, because I don't have enough plastic to make three bushings whoo. That looks like I took off Sun tea based on the size of water shavings. This is no better than the original, so I'll have to start over. Well, that was a fail since I overboard it.
That should be enough. I can fail several time. Now, if I did it right, this axle should be just a light press fit. So I got the mandrel installed now. I just need to cut this down to the proper side, the diameter and leave a flange on this end at the proper distance. From the end, I'm going to go ahead and perk this off and go. Try out. This bushing sees how close it is. That'S my cutoff tool by the way you might not want to try this as metal. I have broken the carbide off trying that before, but I think it'll cut plastic just fine, it's kind of hard to be precise with that Old Lace, but I guess here I'm putting it to the test. Actually, I should stop blaming Malays. It'S me. How close was this?
This should fit just snugly with no play, and it is not too good enough. I'M going to have to make another, it doesn't fit snugly enough in this hole. I don't know how many tries it's going to take to actually get one right. Now this does need to be very, very precise. Thousands of play in this hole is going to equal. You know maybe 8000 sore something out here. That'S not good enough. Okay, second attempt and really liking how the bushing fits in here. No way that's going to work. That'S too tight another bushing, another attempt nice. If this doesn't fit it's not so nice nice, then it's super tight, but if I'm able to turn it this way, then it will for sure be okay, oh yeah! I can turn it in good. Hopefully,
I can repeat my luck for the other site and by luck, I mean skill, all right, bushing number, five, nice nice. I can still turn that one by hand. So that's going to work. This should be ready to reassemble now, but I do want to try to remove remove that little welt that the set screw left. Otherwise, that's going to damage the bushing when I put the shaft in I'm just going to be filing this down, but the lathe is a good way to hold that while I do it, that should be good enough. Of course, the thickness of the flange on these bushings also matters, but it ain't fit, and this thing that operates the guard is also held on by the stop pin which, as you recall our into this earlier, so is it tight enough that it is,
it doesn't Lift nearly as fast as it did before, very gentle, and yet I think it's it not so tight that it's going to be putting undue stress on the part now. Obviously this just removes the play so with some side-to-side force you really yank on it. You can get it to flex a little bit to me. This is nearly the problem that it was originally so fixed. Now I need to cut a forward on this. I'M not even sure. If this thing works, I've never cut anything on it. Yet .
That'S quite a bit of yellow paint on the initial Connecticut. Then I conduct a super nice finish with the factory blade but say from the little issue, with the bushing this c-section be a pretty good, saw it's very smooth. I think it's got to be. The smoothest saw I've ever used. The smoothest miter saw so probably not very many of you are going to repeat this new bushing making process, but I hope that at least if DeWolf is watching, that they will realize that these things are kind of not good enough. Thanks for watching http://www.straightkerfs.com/single-vs-dual-bevel-compound-miter-saws/