so I wanted to start off by saying that I am NOT, then, is not sponsored by D Walt, but it's also not trying to say that they're bad or anything. I like the waltz product, but this one has a very serious flaw. I'Ve said a lot of bad things about miter saws in my day, and the reason isn't that miter saws, in general, are bad. It'S just that every single company builds them with this FreePlay in the hinge see what I'm talking about. It'S not acceptable to be fair.
The average consumer is going to fight, it is probably a DIY kind of guy who is not trying to be very precise or a contractor. A framework they're never going to care about this play in the hinge. They'Re, probably never even going to notice, but for somebody like myself is trying to do precision woodwork. I am going to go crazy, trying to use this thing because it won't be accurate enough. Sometimes I have to cut down a longboard, and I currently have no way to do that, except with a handsaw when a handsaw so inside it I needed a miter saw so anywhere The Home Depot and Whittle all of them and bought the most solid one there.
I got it home and this one's not quite as solid as the display model, so it's not accessible, so I'm going to try to fix it. You'Re, probably saying that it's not acceptable just take it back, but this was the best one there. So if I take it back, what am I going to do how much play there actually is? It'S it's pretty bad. First of all, I had to determine where this play is coming from, and if I put my finger over the end of the hinge pin here and wiggle it, I can feel this pin moving in the socket so I'll lower. The sliding compound miter saw reviews down try to wiggle side to side and yeah.
You can definitely see that with the stuff up. If I try to wiggle play the site, you can also see the pin moving up and down. Obviously, the pin is just waiting small for the whole. My strategy for fixing this is to suddenly take this pin out and put it in a bigger pin. I hope it looks like I should be able to remove the stop the upper limit that stops it here so that it can just flop all the way over backward and that should unwind the spring have a stop removed. You should be able to just let this in frameless now so here on the back of the saw.
There are two set screws, I think that's what's holding the pan in, I see, there's actually a plastic bushing well. This is this is the problem that I've had with 90 % of all tools that I've experienced. You'Ve got nicely machine parts here fairly. Nice finish around here, a very nice shop for it to run on nice. Smooth finish on this clean bore there and then a pathetically cheap, little plastic bushing in a critical location where it matters most, and this isn't unique to this - saw it's not unique to D. Well, it seems like every product that I've encountered has that one part in a critical location - that's just garbage, so I guess instead of making a new bigger diameter shop, I'm going to just make some new bushings here's the bushings.
You can see they have its lock on them. Anyways, that's just super cheap injection. Molded part. I have a piece of UHMW here, so I'm just going to make a new bushing out of this anyone who's ever machined plastic will know that when you get it really thin, it's pretty much impossible to be precise because it deflects. So after I bore out the hole to exactly the right diameter, I'm going to put this little mandrel that I made in the hole to hold it round. While I turn the outside down and that way, I should be able to get that CM little bushing. Exactly the right thickness all the way, I really only have one shot at this, because I don't have enough plastic to make three bushings whoo. That looks like I took off Sun tea based on the size of water shavings. This is no better than the original, so I'll have to start over. Well, that was a fail since I overboard it.
That should be enough. I can fail several time. Now, if I did it right, this axle should be just a light press fit. So I got the mandrel installed now. I just need to cut this down to the proper side, the diameter and leave a flange on this end at the proper distance. From the end, I'm going to go ahead and perk this off and go. Try out. This bushing sees how close it is. That'S my cutoff tool by the way you might not want to try this as metal. I have broken the carbide off trying that before, but I think it'll cut plastic just fine, it's kind of hard to be precise with that Old Lace, but I guess here I'm putting it to the test. Actually, I should stop blaming Malays. It'S me. How close was this?
This should fit just snugly with no play, and it is not too good enough. I'M going to have to make another, it doesn't fit snugly enough in this hole. I don't know how many tries it's going to take to actually get one right. Now this does need to be very, very precise. Thousands of play in this hole is going to equal. You know maybe 8000 sore something out here. That'S not good enough. Okay, second attempt and really liking how the bushing fits in here. No way that's going to work. That'S too tight another bushing, another attempt nice. If this doesn't fit it's not so nice nice, then it's super tight, but if I'm able to turn it this way, then it will for sure be okay, oh yeah! I can turn it in good. Hopefully,
I can repeat my luck for the other site and by luck, I mean skill, all right, bushing number, five, nice nice. I can still turn that one by hand. So that's going to work. This should be ready to reassemble now, but I do want to try to remove remove that little welt that the set screw left. Otherwise, that's going to damage the bushing when I put the shaft in I'm just going to be filing this down, but the lathe is a good way to hold that while I do it, that should be good enough. Of course, the thickness of the flange on these bushings also matters, but it ain't fit, and this thing that operates the guard is also held on by the stop pin which, as you recall our into this earlier, so is it tight enough that it is,
it doesn't Lift nearly as fast as it did before, very gentle, and yet I think it's it not so tight that it's going to be putting undue stress on the part now. Obviously this just removes the play so with some side-to-side force you really yank on it. You can get it to flex a little bit to me. This is nearly the problem that it was originally so fixed. Now I need to cut a forward on this. I'M not even sure. If this thing works, I've never cut anything on it. Yet .
That'S quite a bit of yellow paint on the initial Connecticut. Then I conduct a super nice finish with the factory blade but say from the little issue, with the bushing this c-section be a pretty good, saw it's very smooth. I think it's got to be. The smoothest saw I've ever used. The smoothest miter saw so probably not very many of you are going to repeat this new bushing making process, but I hope that at least if DeWolf is watching, that they will realize that these things are kind of not good enough. Thanks for watching http://www.straightkerfs.com/single-vs-dual-bevel-compound-miter-saws/
Hey we're going to take a close-up look at Bosh's new 12-inch miter saw it has the axial glide system. If you take a look at this, obviously the first thing is going to catch your eyes. This conglomerate of space-aged type technology back here and the way it works is pretty cool. You see the two articulating arms that carry the travel of the head. It'S so different from miter saws that we've seen in the past that have the bars that the head travels on. So what makes this whole thing important is the idea now that you see this space right here, never gets any closer to the wall. That means that you're going to be about 12 inches from the wall with this whole set up much closer than you can get with most of the other miter saw reviews that are out there now.
This is a 12 inch, so it's got a big hunk and motor on it and a big blade on it and from there you know, you're gon na get some really nice cut according to Bosch. This has a 14 inch cut, so it obviously it has all the features that you'd see on any of the other saws. We have dust collection on board. It can also be hooked up to a dust collector separate or a vac of some kind to help in it without the dust collection on it, it probably runs about 90 % collection give or take according to the company, if you add thus collection to it, like A vacuum of some kind you're going to increase that a little bit, but regardless that you're always going to get some of this overflow that comes out because you can't collect 100 %. So this is the big feature, and this is what really makes this song interesting.
I'Ve been told by people from Bosch that you might not be able to see this same technology on a 12 out of 10 inch saw, but then again you never know with what they can come up with when they're in the shop doing their engineering work. So, let's take a look at some of the other features. Alright, let's start right out here, one of the things you got to love about bosses, they've brought all the controls right up front, everything's right here and your fingertips and your hand you don't have to climb behind the saw to do any of the work.
The first thing is this: switch that you got down here are this lever. This is what allows you to take and move the piece to change the different angles and, of course, it's got all the positive stops of all the areas that you need. But if you want to get by that, pull the trigger up flatten the bar out and you got override without any of the stops being in place. Click, it back and you're getting right back to your date, ons again that make everything tie into these specific areas and tilting again. This is a big piece of motor up here under the lock and then you've used this control and we're going to turn this to the left. You want to push this all the way forward and get it started, and you can bend it to the left and dial in exactly where you want.
Let go and lock it down, you're ready to go and to move it back the opposite way again unlock it. You have to turn this button, the opposite direction and start to the left and then bring it back, and you can bring it right back up to zero release it that locks in and lock it back in place. So again, all the controls up front. Another thing feature that you want to look at on this: is this lockout feature up on the the on/off switch? It takes two areas.
One is here with a switch. The other is with your thumb, if you're, right-handed or obviously with your thumb of your left or with your backside hand, but you have to depress this first and then cut this. So, given that this is a 15 amp saw 12 inch, blades got a little bit of hump to it. Now, if you pull this out, but leave it up and start it you're fine, but I'll tell you this! It'S got enough!
Kick that if you try to start this, when you don't have it extended all the way up or all the way down, it's gon na get a little bit of a kick to you. So it's got a little bit of power to it as you cut, but outside of that it's a really nice saw we're gon na come into and take a little bit more of an in-depth look and play with it here in the shop and then you're gon Na see it reviewed in the April 2011 issue of Popular Woodworking magazine in the tool test column you