so I wanted to start off by saying that I am NOT, then, is not sponsored by D Walt, but it's also not trying to say that they're bad or anything. I like the waltz product, but this one has a very serious flaw. I'Ve said a lot of bad things about miter saws in my day, and the reason isn't that miter saws, in general, are bad. It'S just that every single company builds them with this FreePlay in the hinge see what I'm talking about. It'S not acceptable to be fair.
The average consumer is going to fight, it is probably a DIY kind of guy who is not trying to be very precise or a contractor. A framework they're never going to care about this play in the hinge. They'Re, probably never even going to notice, but for somebody like myself is trying to do precision woodwork. I am going to go crazy, trying to use this thing because it won't be accurate enough. Sometimes I have to cut down a longboard, and I currently have no way to do that, except with a handsaw when a handsaw so inside it I needed a miter saw so anywhere The Home Depot and Whittle all of them and bought the most solid one there.
I got it home and this one's not quite as solid as the display model, so it's not accessible, so I'm going to try to fix it. You'Re, probably saying that it's not acceptable just take it back, but this was the best one there. So if I take it back, what am I going to do how much play there actually is? It'S it's pretty bad. First of all, I had to determine where this play is coming from, and if I put my finger over the end of the hinge pin here and wiggle it, I can feel this pin moving in the socket so I'll lower. The sliding compound miter saw reviews down try to wiggle side to side and yeah.
You can definitely see that with the stuff up. If I try to wiggle play the site, you can also see the pin moving up and down. Obviously, the pin is just waiting small for the whole. My strategy for fixing this is to suddenly take this pin out and put it in a bigger pin. I hope it looks like I should be able to remove the stop the upper limit that stops it here so that it can just flop all the way over backward and that should unwind the spring have a stop removed. You should be able to just let this in frameless now so here on the back of the saw.
There are two set screws, I think that's what's holding the pan in, I see, there's actually a plastic bushing well. This is this is the problem that I've had with 90 % of all tools that I've experienced. You'Ve got nicely machine parts here fairly. Nice finish around here, a very nice shop for it to run on nice. Smooth finish on this clean bore there and then a pathetically cheap, little plastic bushing in a critical location where it matters most, and this isn't unique to this - saw it's not unique to D. Well, it seems like every product that I've encountered has that one part in a critical location - that's just garbage, so I guess instead of making a new bigger diameter shop, I'm going to just make some new bushings here's the bushings.
You can see they have its lock on them. Anyways, that's just super cheap injection. Molded part. I have a piece of UHMW here, so I'm just going to make a new bushing out of this anyone who's ever machined plastic will know that when you get it really thin, it's pretty much impossible to be precise because it deflects. So after I bore out the hole to exactly the right diameter, I'm going to put this little mandrel that I made in the hole to hold it round. While I turn the outside down and that way, I should be able to get that CM little bushing. Exactly the right thickness all the way, I really only have one shot at this, because I don't have enough plastic to make three bushings whoo. That looks like I took off Sun tea based on the size of water shavings. This is no better than the original, so I'll have to start over. Well, that was a fail since I overboard it.
That should be enough. I can fail several time. Now, if I did it right, this axle should be just a light press fit. So I got the mandrel installed now. I just need to cut this down to the proper side, the diameter and leave a flange on this end at the proper distance. From the end, I'm going to go ahead and perk this off and go. Try out. This bushing sees how close it is. That'S my cutoff tool by the way you might not want to try this as metal. I have broken the carbide off trying that before, but I think it'll cut plastic just fine, it's kind of hard to be precise with that Old Lace, but I guess here I'm putting it to the test. Actually, I should stop blaming Malays. It'S me. How close was this?
This should fit just snugly with no play, and it is not too good enough. I'M going to have to make another, it doesn't fit snugly enough in this hole. I don't know how many tries it's going to take to actually get one right. Now this does need to be very, very precise. Thousands of play in this hole is going to equal. You know maybe 8000 sore something out here. That'S not good enough. Okay, second attempt and really liking how the bushing fits in here. No way that's going to work. That'S too tight another bushing, another attempt nice. If this doesn't fit it's not so nice nice, then it's super tight, but if I'm able to turn it this way, then it will for sure be okay, oh yeah! I can turn it in good. Hopefully,
I can repeat my luck for the other site and by luck, I mean skill, all right, bushing number, five, nice nice. I can still turn that one by hand. So that's going to work. This should be ready to reassemble now, but I do want to try to remove remove that little welt that the set screw left. Otherwise, that's going to damage the bushing when I put the shaft in I'm just going to be filing this down, but the lathe is a good way to hold that while I do it, that should be good enough. Of course, the thickness of the flange on these bushings also matters, but it ain't fit, and this thing that operates the guard is also held on by the stop pin which, as you recall our into this earlier, so is it tight enough that it is,
it doesn't Lift nearly as fast as it did before, very gentle, and yet I think it's it not so tight that it's going to be putting undue stress on the part now. Obviously this just removes the play so with some side-to-side force you really yank on it. You can get it to flex a little bit to me. This is nearly the problem that it was originally so fixed. Now I need to cut a forward on this. I'M not even sure. If this thing works, I've never cut anything on it. Yet .
That'S quite a bit of yellow paint on the initial Connecticut. Then I conduct a super nice finish with the factory blade but say from the little issue, with the bushing this c-section be a pretty good, saw it's very smooth. I think it's got to be. The smoothest saw I've ever used. The smoothest miter saw so probably not very many of you are going to repeat this new bushing making process, but I hope that at least if DeWolf is watching, that they will realize that these things are kind of not good enough. Thanks for watching http://www.straightkerfs.com/single-vs-dual-bevel-compound-miter-saws/
Hey we're going to take a close-up look at Bosh's new 12-inch miter saw it has the axial glide system. If you take a look at this, obviously the first thing is going to catch your eyes. This conglomerate of space-aged type technology back here and the way it works is pretty cool. You see the two articulating arms that carry the travel of the head. It'S so different from miter saws that we've seen in the past that have the bars that the head travels on. So what makes this whole thing important is the idea now that you see this space right here, never gets any closer to the wall. That means that you're going to be about 12 inches from the wall with this whole set up much closer than you can get with most of the other miter saw reviews that are out there now.
This is a 12 inch, so it's got a big hunk and motor on it and a big blade on it and from there you know, you're gon na get some really nice cut according to Bosch. This has a 14 inch cut, so it obviously it has all the features that you'd see on any of the other saws. We have dust collection on board. It can also be hooked up to a dust collector separate or a vac of some kind to help in it without the dust collection on it, it probably runs about 90 % collection give or take according to the company, if you add thus collection to it, like A vacuum of some kind you're going to increase that a little bit, but regardless that you're always going to get some of this overflow that comes out because you can't collect 100 %. So this is the big feature, and this is what really makes this song interesting.
I'Ve been told by people from Bosch that you might not be able to see this same technology on a 12 out of 10 inch saw, but then again you never know with what they can come up with when they're in the shop doing their engineering work. So, let's take a look at some of the other features. Alright, let's start right out here, one of the things you got to love about bosses, they've brought all the controls right up front, everything's right here and your fingertips and your hand you don't have to climb behind the saw to do any of the work.
The first thing is this: switch that you got down here are this lever. This is what allows you to take and move the piece to change the different angles and, of course, it's got all the positive stops of all the areas that you need. But if you want to get by that, pull the trigger up flatten the bar out and you got override without any of the stops being in place. Click, it back and you're getting right back to your date, ons again that make everything tie into these specific areas and tilting again. This is a big piece of motor up here under the lock and then you've used this control and we're going to turn this to the left. You want to push this all the way forward and get it started, and you can bend it to the left and dial in exactly where you want.
Let go and lock it down, you're ready to go and to move it back the opposite way again unlock it. You have to turn this button, the opposite direction and start to the left and then bring it back, and you can bring it right back up to zero release it that locks in and lock it back in place. So again, all the controls up front. Another thing feature that you want to look at on this: is this lockout feature up on the the on/off switch? It takes two areas.
One is here with a switch. The other is with your thumb, if you're, right-handed or obviously with your thumb of your left or with your backside hand, but you have to depress this first and then cut this. So, given that this is a 15 amp saw 12 inch, blades got a little bit of hump to it. Now, if you pull this out, but leave it up and start it you're fine, but I'll tell you this! It'S got enough!
Kick that if you try to start this, when you don't have it extended all the way up or all the way down, it's gon na get a little bit of a kick to you. So it's got a little bit of power to it as you cut, but outside of that it's a really nice saw we're gon na come into and take a little bit more of an in-depth look and play with it here in the shop and then you're gon Na see it reviewed in the April 2011 issue of Popular Woodworking magazine in the tool test column you
If you use your miter saw to do precision work, then you should consider adding some of these simple shot made upgrades to make yourself ice and more productive, hey guys and welcome to another episode of DP shop. Talk and today we're going to be taking a look at the additions and upgrades that I've made to my workshop. Miter saw now. As you can see, this is a Bosch 10 inch, axial glide miter saw, but what I'm going to show you can be applied to just about any miter saw now, if you do have, the specific saw make sure you check out the previous episode. If you haven't seen it already on the dust collection modifications that I made, they make a dramatic difference in the amount of dust that you're able to collect, with the saw keeping your workspace cleaner. So you can also download a free plan for the dust boot over. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miter_saw
My website at Dan Pattinson comm so put both of those links in the video description below if you're interested in checking of that now. What I want to cover today is the the MDF auxiliary fence place with zero clearance of the zero clearance insert for the table. As well as the sliding material support on either side with built in flip, stops for making repetitive cuts so we'll start with the most basic upgrade, and that is these zero clearance, auxiliary fence plates now there's two main advantages to having a zero clearance fence like this, The first one is that it gives full support to the back edge of your workpiece right up to the blade. So when the blade goes through and finishes the back of a cut, it reduces splintering or tear out and gives you a cleaner cut.
The second advantage is, it makes it very quick and easy to align your workpiece to make the cut. So, rather than having your cut mark out here and bringing the blade down and trying to align a tooth to it, you can simply make your cut mark along the back edge of the work, and then you can quickly slide it along to whichever side of the The curve you want to cut on and then go ahead and make your cut, so it makes a very quick, easy and accurate to get to the alignment of your workpiece exactly where it needs to be so to make the sense place. I just use a piece of scrap half-inch MDF. Now my particular saw with this custom dust boot that I've made. I had to make a notch out of defense to allow the the dust boot to pass through so depending on the setup you have, you may not need that you might be able to keep your fence up higher.
Now I made a small rabbit along the bottom edge of the fence, just to keep any built-up sawdust from throwing off my cut and then to attach them. I just simply screw them on from behind, with some 1/2 inch pan head screws and some washers. So with this saw and many others, you can loosen the lock knob on the back and slide the fences along and that's the part that the MDF is attached to so that moves along with it. So you do that when I need to make some miter cuts and don't want to cut into to the MDF and lose my zero clearance capability when I'm cutting at 90. So once I do that and I can swing my saw to pay 45 degrees and then when the blade comes through, it's not damaging my my fences. Now, if you are making a lot of cuts at say 45 degrees, then you could slap some sacrificial fence plates on here and have that zero clearance at 45. Most of the cuts I make are at 90. So when I do need to make an angle cut, I usually just back the fence faces off of it.
So the second addition and upgrade that I made to the saw, is a zero clearance insert plate. Now I replaced the two-piece plastic insert plate that came with the saw with the single piece plywood insert plate. Now this played a zero clearance, so when, when the blade comes through it there's no space on either side of the blade. So the advantage with that is that it reduces splintering and chip out on the underside of your cuts and again gives full support right up to the blade the same as the fence. Does. It helps improve dust collection capability and it also keeps narrow offcuts from dropping down inside the saw, which we all know is really annoying. You got to try and dig them out and resist the pain so that avoids that from happening now. The other thing is: if you have a cut mark along the front edge of your workpiece, you can also align it to either side of the kerf the same as you can with the fence.
Now I got the design and the build process from John Peters over on his YouTube channel, John Peters, Hertz and home. He did a video showing how to make an insert plate specifically for this Bosch saw. So I won't go into any more detail about this. Since John does an excellent job of showing how to build it in his video, so I'll put a link for his video and in the video description below, so you can check that out. So the final addition that I made to my miter saw setup are these sliding material supports with flip stops and I'll? Tell you how I made those in just a minute, so I don't really have enough space in my shop to have sort of a full-on dedicated miter saw station. So I simply screwed the saw down to the plywood top of my shop cabinets now. On the side note, my shop cabinets are still kind of work in progress.
I still haven't had a chance to make drawers or doors or even a proper countertop for them, but I'll get there eventually. So with this set up, the sort of in feed outfeed space of the miter saw is my workbench on one side and then the rest of my countertop space on the other side. So it allows this space to sort of serve multiple purposes so again, rather than having a dedicated miter saw station. It lets me do multiple things in this space now the Bosch active live miter saw really lets me, make the most out of the space that I have, since it doesn't require that additional space behind the saw to the wall that a traditional saw with with slide And rails does so, I can put it very close to the wall and really make the most of that space, so the material support for super easy to build. I just used some scrap melamine that I had around the shop and just simply screwed them together. So I built them sort of like a bench hook with a cleat along the front edge so that registers to the front edge of my workbench or and for in this case for the other one the front edge of my countertop, and so it just lets. It slide long now the the height of them is different and the depth of them is different.
Since my workbench and my countertop have two different heights and two different projections out from from the saw, but the construction of them is, if both the same so basically a bottom plate with that cleat and then-then just to two sides, with a top screwed on To the proper height to meet up with the table of the saw now at the end of them, I installed a flipped stop as for making repetitive cuts. So that's basically just a piece of half-inch Baltic birch. I spaced it off the side of the material support with a large washer and then attached it with a washer head screw and a smaller washer and that lifted to easily turn, but keeps it firmly in place. And I added a piece of Baltic birch. Inside of it had to put a longer screw through, so that's got more holding power. I found that with the particle board it just wasn't, it wasn't holding tight enough. The other thing you could do is use a small machine screw with with a nut and a washer on the inside as well. Either setup will work. So when I'm using the material supports, I don't usually bother clamping them down in place unless I'm using the slip stops since the the queek keeps it from pushing back at all.
So I'm going to sort of position it where I want. If I just want some general support for my workpieces now, if I am using the flip, stop then I'll flip it up and then set the distance from the flip. Stop to my blade for whatever length I want to cut to and then simply take a clamp and clamp it down, and now I can make as many cuts they need to and they're all exactly the same length, [ Applause ]. So that's a look at the additions and modifications that I've made to my miter saw and what I found helpful in my own shop. So hopefully you can take some of these things and apply them to your own, say whether it's this specific model or any other model, and that you'll find those things helpful as well. Now, as I mentioned earlier, https://sawwiz.com/best-miter-saw-reviews/
if you do have the specific saw make sure you check out the previous episode on how to make the dust collection modifications which make a dramatic difference in the dust collection performance, and you can also download free templates for the dust boot Over on my website at Dan Pattinson comm, so I hope you found this video helpful if you have don't forget to Like share and hit that subscribe button and as always, make sure you leave your ideas, thoughts and questions down in the comments below. So thanks for watching and until next time, let's talk shop,